In her exploration of the intricate relationship between women and their bodies, author Heather Radke sheds light on a surprising revelation: the vexing inconsistency of women’s clothing sizes can be traced back to a 1930s eugenics experiment. In her book, “Butts, a Backstory,” Radke delves into the historical context behind this phenomenon, revealing a troubling legacy of racism and societal ideals that continue to shape the fashion industry today.
The Genesis of Sizing Woes
Radke’s research uncovers the pivotal role played by gynecologist Robert Latou Dickinson and artist Abram Belskie, who crafted life-sized plaster casts dubbed Normman and Norma. These statues, created in the 1940s, were intended to establish standardized clothing sizes by defining what constituted a “normal” American body. However, the quest for normalcy was tainted by eugenicist ideologies, which sought to eradicate individuals deemed unfit based on race, disability, or sexual orientation.
The Role of Ruth O’Brien
The development of standardized clothing sizes was further influenced by Ruth O’Brien, a government employee tasked with addressing the frustration of ill-fitting garments faced by countless women. O’Brien’s efforts, however, were marred by racial bias, as non-white women’s measurements were systematically erased from the data, perpetuating discriminatory practices within the garment industry.
Norma: Symbol of Conformity
Norma, the culmination of O’Brien’s data, became the embodiment of societal ideals of femininity and beauty. Displayed at the American Museum of Natural History, Norma represented an aspirational standard that reinforced prevailing notions of normalcy during a period of societal upheaval.
The Legacy of Sizing Standards
Despite advancements in fit modeling and garment production techniques, the legacy of Norma persists in the fashion industry. Fit models like Natasha Wagner serve as the blueprint for clothing sizes, perpetuating an unrealistic standard that excludes the diverse range of women’s bodies.
Embracing Body Diversity
Radke’s findings challenge the notion of a one-size-fits-all approach to clothing, highlighting the inherent limitations of standardized sizing. By recognizing the systemic factors contributing to sizing frustrations, individuals can begin to reclaim agency over their bodies and reject the notion that their worth is defined by clothing labels.
A Call for Change
As Radke aptly asserts, the problem lies not with our bodies but with the narrow constraints imposed by an industry rooted in outdated ideals. By advocating for greater inclusivity and diversity in sizing standards, we can move towards a future where every body is celebrated and accommodated with dignity and respect.
